DIY toilet repair

As paradoxical as it may sound, repairs in the smallest room of an apartment – a bathroom – can cost more than finishing a huge room. This is largely due to the relatively high price of quality plumbing. And the work of master tilers will not be cheap. You can significantly reduce costs by making repairs to the toilet yourself. Of course, in this case, the already long process will drag on even more, but the final amount in the estimate will greatly decrease.


Preparatory work

Where to begin? First of all, you need to remove old plumbing and finishing materials. For this we need some tool:

  • Several screwdrivers of different sizes and cross-sections;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Gas key # 3 or # 2;
  • Perforator;

You can get to work. First, we dismantle and take out the old plumbing fixtures – a washbasin, a bathtub, a toilet bowl. If a washing machine is installed in the bathroom, we start with it..

Important! When planning to live in an apartment during the renovation, take into account the fact that you can still somehow manage without a bath and a washbasin, but nothing without a toilet. Try to dismantle it last. After replacing the pipes, it can be put back, but not fixed.

Dismantling the washbasin

Whatever the design of the washbasin you have, the principle of its dismantling is the same:

  • Shut off cold and hot water;
  • Open the faucet valves and let the water drain;
  • Disconnect flexible hoses using an adjustable or gas wrench;

Important! When disconnecting the flexible hoses, be aware that water may remain in them. Take care of where it flows.

  • Unscrew the fixing nuts of the mixer and remove it;
  • Place a container under the siphon to collect water and unscrew the siphon glass. Drain the water and replace the glass;
  • To disconnect from the sewage system, unscrew the nut under the bottom of the sink, while holding the siphon glass;
  • Unscrew the nut at the top of the siphon and disconnect the drain pipe;
  • Remove the wedge washer and nuts from both sides of the pipe and remove it;
  • If the connection of the siphon to the sewer is cemented, arm yourself with a chisel and hammer. With the chisel at right angles to the pipe, beat off and remove the mortar;
  • Remove the siphon from the sewer hole and close it with a special cover. If there is no lid or the hole is non-standard, we plug it with a rag so as not to block the water drain.

Now we remove the sink. We simply take the “Moidodyr” out of the room, and unscrew the sink with bolts, holding it so that it does not fall.

Dismantling the bath

Given the size of this piece of plumbing, you will have to tinker a little longer than with a washbasin:

  • Disconnect and drain the water;
  • Unscrew the siphon nut and remove the drain grate;

Important! If the bathtub is very old and the nut “boils”, you will have to break the drain grate. The easiest way to do this is from the inside of the tub using a hammer and a small chisel. We beat off the funnel segment and bend the remaining part so that it passes through the drain hole of the bath.

  • Disconnect the overflow;
  • We take out the branch pipe from the sewer pipe;
  • Now it remains to disconnect the grounding strip and you can take out the bath.

Dismantling the toilet

If you do not plan to use this plumbing item during the renovation, you can remove it completely. If there is a need for it, postpone dismantling until the pipes are replaced..

So let’s get started. As in previous cases, we shut off the water and drain the remains from the tank:

  • We unscrew the supply hose on the water supply;
  • We remove the cistern from the toilet, after unscrewing the nuts under the shelf. If you had a hanging cistern, simply disconnect the pipe from the toilet and remove the cistern from the mountings;
  • Removing the toilet seat fixings: unscrew the dowels or screw the nuts off the studs;
  • We take out the rubber bell from the sewer pipe, after placing a container for drains under the place of the connector. If the toilet is installed on cement mortar, we again take up the hammer and chisel;
  • We close the sewer hole with a lid or rag;

Drain the toilet and you’re done.

Cleaning walls and floors

Of course, before making repairs in the toilet, you must decide on the type of wall and floor covering. The combined bathroom is recommended to be finished with ceramic tiles, and the separate toilet can be pasted over with washable wallpaper or sheathed with plastic. The lining looks great in this room..

Before laying ceramic tiles, the walls and floor must be cleaned of old finishing materials. It all depends on what they were covered with.

If it is a ceramic tile, knock it down. The easiest way to do this is as shown in the video..

If the walls were covered with wallpaper, remove them and check the strength of the walls. In places where the plaster has moved away a little, you need to beat it off completely. If the plaster layer is sufficiently strong and even, it can be left.

Important! Quite often, in old houses, the plaster is applied unevenly to the walls. In this case, it is best to delete it. Otherwise, by leveling the walls, you will significantly reduce the already small area of ​​the toilet..

The whitewash needs to be washed off. If the layer is thick, use a spatula. Wet the surface with warm water using a rag or spray, and then remove all layer of whitewash.

Walls painted with oil paint should be cleaned especially thoroughly. Remaining paint can significantly reduce adhesion. This can be done using a special tool or manually. These videos will guide you through both methods..

DIY toilet repair – video of the wall preparation process.

We clean the walls from paint by hand.

In recent years, paint corrosive chemicals have appeared on the market. Although the reviews about them are contradictory – from enthusiastic to sharply negative – you can try.

Installation works and finishing


If the toilet is combined with a bathroom, good waterproofing is necessary. And in a separate toilet, where, as a rule, there are central risers of water supply and sewerage, it will not interfere.

There are several types of waterproofing materials. The most popular of them are coating and pasting. The former are produced in the form of mastic and are applied to the surface with a brush or roller, and the latter are self-adhesive film. The use of the latter requires careful preparation of the walls. So, the surface difference should not be more than 2mm. Lubricating waterproofing can be applied to unprepared walls. The main thing is that they are clean..

In a combined bathroom, it is recommended to insulate the entire surface of the walls and floor. Sometimes, in order to save money, only the areas around the bath, shower and washbasin are protected. This approach only makes sense in large enough rooms. In small bathrooms, the savings in material are so insignificant that it is not worthwhile to “fence the garden” – it is easier to isolate the entire surface.

In a separate room of the toilet, you can do only with waterproofing the floor:

  • Vacuum the surface;
  • Prime it;
  • If there is a crack between the wall and the floor, it must be covered with cement mortar or tile glue;
  • The corners and joints between the plates (if any) are glued with a special sealing tape;

Waterproofing material, regardless of the type, must be applied not only to the floor, but also to the lower part of the wall – about 20cm.

Replacing pipes

Most often, in the process of repairing a toilet, the replacement of water and sewer pipes is also carried out. In most apartments, the central risers run through this room. If the pipes in your house are old, try to negotiate with the neighbors above and below and replace them. If you can’t even replace the entire riser, change the length of pipe that goes through your apartment. In this case, the junction must be in the apartment where the old pipes are left..

Of course, the internal wiring of the water supply and sewerage system should also be replaced. Pipes made of polymer materials that have appeared on the construction market in recent years can be hidden in walls.

To do this, it is enough to make a strobe in the wall, lay pipes and close the strobe with mortar. It should be noted that if a riser passes through the toilet, there is no point in hiding the rest of the pipes in the walls – it will still not work to hide the riser. It is much easier to close all pipes with a box.

“Hiding” the pipes

Agree, even modern pipes crossing the room from floor to ceiling will not add aesthetics to it. So, they need to be hidden. This can be done using a drywall or plastic box with a window for access to the pipes..

To ensure free access to the pipes, roller shutters are sometimes used as a screen. This method will allow not only to hide the pipes, but also to arrange several shelves for household items..

Entering into any search engine the query “bathroom toilet renovation photo” you can easily find dozens of options for similar designs.

Aligning the walls

In order to make the perfect toilet repair with your own hands (everyone can choose a photo of the ideal for themselves on the Internet or in numerous thematic magazines), it is necessary to carefully align all surfaces. Let’s start with the walls. First of all, using a level, a plumb line and a corner, we measure the curvature of the walls. If it is insignificant, and you have chosen a tile as a finishing material, it is enough to arm yourself with a spatula and tile glue. In this case, the leveling process is very similar to the putty process..

If the walls are very crooked, you will have to plaster. It should be said that this process is laborious and for a beginner it can be quite difficult. The following video will help you understand all the subtleties of this process..

Thus, we align all the walls..

Leveling the floor

The waterproofing layer on the floor must be covered with a concrete screed. In this case, it is better to add polypropylene fiber to the solution. This will help avoid shrinkage cracks. In addition, the floors in our apartments are rarely even. So with the help of a screed, we will solve two problems at once – we will hide the waterproofing and level the floor..

Important! If you decide to arrange a warm floor in your toilet, lay it before pouring the screed..

The easiest way to fill the screed is to use the “beacons”. In a small room, it is enough to install only two guide strips – along the walls. Distance between "beacons" should be 1-1.3m. Special plaster beacons are sold in stores, but if you want to save money, you can use trimming a wooden beam or a metal profile for drywall for these purposes. The cost of repairing the toilet can be slightly reduced not only by doing all the work with your own hands, but also by trying to send as little residual building materials as possible to the landfill. The main thing here is not to overdo it – sometimes excessive savings leads to very disastrous results..

So let’s get started:

  • We set the guides in level and attach them to small slides of solution;
  • Be sure to check the location of the lighthouses relative to each other with a long level;
  • When the solution has dried, proceed to pouring. We start from the far corner of the room and move towards the door;
  • We pour out several buckets of mortar at the far wall and “stretch” it with the rule as shown in the video on leveling the walls;
  • If you get deep “pits”, add a solution to them and once again go through the rule;

After the entire surface of the floor is covered with a screed, let it dry. This process usually takes several days. You should not try to speed it up due to the high temperature in the room – this will lead to a significant decrease in the working qualities of the concrete. On particularly hot days, cover the concrete with plastic wrap and moisten it once a day..

Important! The period of complete drying of the concrete screed is about a month. This is exactly how much you need to wait if you have laid an electric “warm floor” under the screed.

Laying tiles

When all communications are replaced, the box is installed, and the floor and walls are leveled, you can start laying the tiles. Fortunately, the variety of colors, sizes and textures of this material will satisfy even the most discerning consumer, and ideas for toilet repair can be found in the same magazines..

First of all, we lay tiles on the walls..

Experts recommend laying the cut row closer to the floor, so it is less noticeable. We will start laying from the first whole row, which means that it is necessary to determine at what height it will be:

  • Measure the height of the wall and divide by the height of the tile. This way you get the number of whole rows. Then calculate the height of the trimmed tile.

Important! When calculating the height of the trimmed tile, be sure to take into account the gap between the rows. Usually it is 2-3mm.

  • Measure from the floor a distance equal to the height of the cut row and attach a flat wooden plank or metal profile according to the level;
  • At the corners of the wall, using a plumb line, we fix vertical strips – they will serve as a vertical level;
  • Preparing the solution. To do this, pour water into the prepared container and pour the adhesive in small portions. Stir with a construction mixer (special drill attachment).

The required proportion is usually indicated on the package. But the final decision must be made based on the consistency of the solution: it should stick to the wall and not drain, and at the same time be sufficiently elastic and smear.

The technology for laying tiles on walls and floors is perfectly shown in the following video. In addition, you will learn how to properly cut tiles and grind seams. In the video, experienced craftsmen do not use vertical levels, but for those who took up the laying of tiles for the first time, it is better to play it safe..

Toilet repair – video instructions for laying tiles


The ceiling in the bathroom can be almost anything – plastic, stretch or plasterboard. The latter is less preferable, but if you really want to, make it from moisture-resistant gypsum board. In this case, it must be borne in mind that such drywall sheets are heavier than the ceiling ones, which means that the supporting structure for them must be reinforced..

Plumbing installation

You can start installing plumbing within a day after grouting the tiles. The variety of models of toilets, washbasins and shower stalls does not allow giving general recommendations for their installation. As a rule, the package contains instructions that will help you cope with the last stage of the repair..

That’s all. Now you know exactly how to make a toilet repair yourself: where to start, what to pay special attention to, how to save as much as possible. As you can see, the renovation process in this small space takes a lot of time and effort. The only good news is that it is done quite rarely. Of course, if all the work is done correctly, and the materials are selected with taste.

After you have bought a new beautiful apartment, you will need renovation. Repair in a new building is inexpensive, quickly and efficiently. Excellent masters will always help you.

Categorized as Walls