An important condition for “weather in the house” is the correct arrangement of the stove. The metal varieties of these heaters are common options for heating small private buildings, baths and garages. Even before the oven takes its rightful place, it is worth thinking about its final finishing. The article will discuss how to properly brick a metal stove.
Most often, home craftsmen prefer to use brick for lining a metal stove. It is good in all respects, but:
- will significantly increase the weight of the stove;
- will require a thorough arrangement of the foundation of the building;
- assumes a solid, reliable floor.
Brick metal oven
A metal stove for heating a room is chosen for several reasons..
- Unlike the heater, it heats up much faster..
- It’s easy to mount.
- There is virtually no risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
- Despite these advantages, there are a number of recommendations according to which you should not leave a metal stove without finishing..
- Rapid heating of the heater means that the air in the room heats up in the shortest possible time. But the stove will also cool down almost immediately, after stopping the fuel supply. But the brick finish guarantees gradual heating, uniform heat distribution throughout the room and long-term maintenance of a comfortable temperature..
- From the first argument follows the second, which entails economic benefits. If the steam room warms up evenly, and the air in it does not cool for a long time, then there is no need to constantly maintain the fire in the firebox..
- Safety is a fundamental principle in the use of any heating appliance. Hot metal can cause severe burns. The brick will also heat up, but there will be no serious consequences after touching it.
- In addition, experts say that the heat from the metal and brick surfaces of the stove is different. In the latter version, it is stronger, softer and more pleasant. It is believed that the method of heating a room using such a furnace will ensure the creation of an ideal microclimate in general and air humidity in particular..
Why is brick used as a building material with which to overlay a stove? It’s affordable and easy to use. But some of the nuances when buying it should still be considered..
- The masonry will serve for a long time and will be able to withstand strong heating only if it is made of refractory bricks. Sometimes it is also called chamotte (by the name of a special kind of clay – chamotte).
- Refractory bricks are produced in two types: hollow and solid. The first option should be chosen if you want to overlay the oven and at the same time not increase the total weight of the structure too much. And in the second case, the owner of the room will have to heat the stove a little longer in order to then enjoy the heat for a longer period of time..
- Those who care not only about the functionality and safety of the stove should pay attention to products with a special textured surface. But you will have to pay a lot for the decorative effect..
- Choosing and buying bricks is not all. For example, before you impose a brick on a metal stove in a bath, it is important to correctly determine the solution. It can be sand-cement, cement-glue, or a mixture of refractory clay and cement.
Masonry, regardless of the type of brick chosen, will have a significant weight. To represent it, you can make simple calculations..
- The number of rows of masonry is multiplied by the number of bricks in one row. The resulting figure is multiplied by the weight of one brick. This is the mass of the screen. But it is imperative to add to it the weight of the water tank with its contents and the stove itself. If the result exceeds 700 kg, then it is recommended to install the oven on a separate foundation..
- A floor that is not strong enough can be slightly reinforced. For this, supports are installed under the load-bearing floor beams in the place where the furnace will be located..
- Installing the stove on a wooden floor assumes that the cladding will be carried out on an iron sheet in order to comply with fire safety requirements..
- In order not to be distracted during work by looking for the right tool or purchasing material, everything must be prepared in advance, according to the following list:
- Master OK;
- a basin or other capacious container for mixing the solution;
- pencil or marker for marks;
- reinforcement mesh;
- constituent components for the solution;
- sheet of metal and corners (at least two);
- a sheet of asbestos cardboard;
- compound for grouting.
- Clay will require preliminary manipulations. For softening, it is poured with water for several days, and then rubbed through a sieve. On one part of the sand, three parts of the fastening component are placed in the solution. After all the components are measured out, they are gradually diluted with water. The required consistency should be moderately plastic, not spread, but at the same time it should lie well on the surface of the bricks.
- They are also prepared for work in a special way. The body of the brick has a large number of pores that quickly absorb water from the solution. Such an overdried mixture becomes less plastic, and after drying it loses some of its strength characteristics. It overheats too much during the heating process, the seams become less dense, and the entire masonry suffers. The solution begins to fall out in parts.
- Since through holes and cracks in the cladding are not included in the plans of the home master, you need to use the old proven method: saturate the brick with water before laying. It is immersed in a small container and left for a while. It is very simple to determine “readiness” – air bubbles cease to emerge on the surface in a large volume. This means that the brick has absorbed the required amount of moisture, will not take it from the mortar, and you can start laying.
- The dimensions of the corners and sheets of iron and asbestos depend on the dimensions of the furnace. Additional reinforcement of the masonry with a special mesh can be omitted. Such reinforcement will not hurt, but it does not apply to mandatory conditions. If, nevertheless, the master considers its use justified, then the size of the material is selected in accordance with the width of the masonry. The mesh is not allowed to go beyond its limits. It should be prepared in advance by cutting it into pieces of the desired size, so as not to waste time during work, allowing the solution to dry out. Lay it in every row of masonry.
- Before proceeding directly to the lining, it should be understood that the brick should not be adjacent to the walls of the furnace. A distance of 5 or 10 cm is considered optimal. Such an air gap is necessary to compensate for the difference in heating of materials. Rapidly heating metal in direct contact with brickwork will cause the stove to overheat. Therefore, at the first stage, you will need a pencil and a tape measure..
- It is necessary to mark the border of the masonry.
- The metal sheet is screwed onto self-tapping screws or nailed in such a way that its area completely covers the place of masonry. A sheet of asbestos cardboard is attached on top of it. Its thickness should be at least 4 mm, and it should be smaller in size than metal sheet. In the event that the stove is placed not on a wooden floor, but on another non-combustible base, then such fire safety measures will be unnecessary..
- Diluted purchased mortar or self-prepared mixture together with bricks and trowels should be brought directly to the place of installation.
- To improve the performance of a metal oven, half-brick masonry is enough. It allows you to save both building material and mortar. This method of styling implies that the spoon side will be facing the “viewer”. The brick is laid in a row on the base in length. Each of them is connected to each other by a layer of solution. Subsequent rows of masonry are shifted relative to the previous one by half a brick. The joints of the bricks do not match, so the whole structure is solid.
- With standard sizes of building materials, the thickness of the resulting masonry will be 120 mm. Just before laying the brick, lightly wipe off excess moisture. The first row is made continuous, without technological holes.
- Ventilation outlets must be present in the second row. Their width should not exceed five centimeters. They must be duplicated several more times. That is, continuous rows of masonry must be interspersed with those that are left by the “windows”. The number of rows with holes depends on the size of the stove. Such ventilation is necessary so that the heat from the hot walls does not remain inside the brick casing, but goes out and evenly fills the room..
- Each row of masonry is performed using a level. Part of the mortar is added (or removed) to the brick so that the rows do not deviate from the horizontal and vertical. You can level the brick by lightly tapping on it with a mallet or trowel, slightly shifting it in the desired direction.
- Excess mortar, ugly floating on the rows, must be removed immediately so that after solidification does not apply unnecessary efforts, separating them from the masonry.
- In the place where the stove door is located, it is necessary to make the lining in such a way that it does not interfere with the opening, laying firewood, lighting and cleaning the firebox from ash. The metal corner will come in handy to reinforce the top side of the doorway..
- The oven must be positioned so that the distance to the nearest wall is at least 35 cm.
- It is worth starting to cover the stove from the corner.
- The first row is made of solid bricks.
- “Windows” in the masonry perform not only the function of protecting the stove from overheating. They help warm up the room faster. To regulate this process, you can, if necessary, partially cover them with a brick of a suitable size. And it will be more convenient to use them if you make doors for them during masonry. And such “windows” will look much more attractive..
- You can not completely overlay a metal stove with bricks. The top is sometimes left free of masonry, but the space is filled with special stones.
- After completion of the work, the masonry is left alone for several days. It usually dries out in two or three days. Then you can heat the stove a little. The purpose of this “test run” is not to heat the room to the maximum temperature. It is necessary to slightly speed up the process of drying bricks and mortar.
- The brick cladding should be allowed to stand for a while, and then you can start finishing the hearth. Using a special nozzle-brush on a drill, they process the surface of the masonry. The resulting dust is brushed off and finally washed off with soapy water. You will get a smooth and beautiful surface. During processing, dust will settle not only on the surface of the masonry. It is imperative to wear safety glasses and a respirator or mask.
- Grout is sold in any color. It is not difficult to work with it, and the time spent will more than pay off the result in the form of beautiful and neat seams. The procedure is simple: the required amount of dry mixture is diluted with water, the space between the bricks is filled with it, the excess is removed and allowed to dry.
- Polishing and grouting are not the only finishing options. The surface of the protective brick casing can be plastered, artificially aged or covered with tiled tiles. The latter option is not cheap. But choosing ceramic tiles as an alternative is not recommended..