Construction of houses

Features of warming a brick house with your own hands. Do-it-yourself options for insulating a brick house. Do-it-yourself brick house insulation rules

The need to insulate a brick house arises in different cases. Either this is an old building and renovation work is required, or a new house, which is planned to be made more energy efficient. There are a lot of thermal insulation materials, as well as insulation methods. In the article, we will consider options for insulating a brick house with our own hands outside.

Content:

Features of insulation of a brick house

  • First of all, it is important to know the technical characteristics of the external walls – they are made of hollow or solid bricks.
  • In addition, the method of brickwork affects the design layer of the heat-insulating material – whether it was made monolithic or in the form of a well, with an air gap.
  • When choosing a heat-insulating material, it is important to pay attention to whether it is intended for external or internal insulation.

  • The thickness of the insulation layer will depend on its density and thermal conductivity characteristics.
  • For interior work, you should choose natural materials that are safe for humans, for example, mineral wool.
  • When insulating a brick house from the outside, it is worth purchasing finishing materials in advance. Whether it will be plaster or a ventilated facade, you need to know right away, since the method of fixing the insulation depends on this. The obvious advantage of insulating the house from the outside is that the living area will not decrease.

Do-it-yourself home insulation with penoplex

Penoplex is great for insulating a brick house from the outside. It is a material with excellent rigidity, high thermal insulation properties, it is not afraid of moisture and it is not eaten by mice.

For work you will need materials and tools:

  • foam plates;
  • start profile;
  • construction glue;
  • dowel-nails with a mushroom head;
  • reinforcing facade mesh;
  • aluminum or plastic corner;
  • slopes;
  • finishing material.

Important: the length of the dowel depends on the thickness of the insulation, but the main rule is that it should enter at least 12 cm into a brick wall, and at least 9 cm into a concrete wall.

Stages of work

  • The insulated wall is inspected for mold, chips and other possible defects. Everything that can be removed is removed and treated with antiseptic compounds. If the wall has peeling paint or plaster, it is also important to clean it up..
  • Often, old brick houses are already insulated outside and cracks or chips are present in their masonry. Therefore, repair work will be required first. The crack is slightly widened, dedusted and primed. Then they are covered with cement mortar or filled with polyurethane foam.

Tip: The adhesion of the wall of a brick house is easy to check. A small piece of foam (10×10 cm) is glued to it on a special glue. If after 3 days, when trying to tear it off, it completely moves away from the wall, additional cleaning and priming of the surface will be required. If it broke, but remained glued to the wall, then it is mono to start work.

  • For ease of installation, markings are made on the wall for the starting horizontal profile. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the foam sheet. For this, it is recommended to use a special perforated profile that will not bend during the thermal expansion of materials in the season..
  • The starting profile is fixed exactly at the level. It will not only set the evenness of the subsequent masonry, but also protect the insulation from rodents. If the length of 1 profile strip is not enough, then it is important to leave a gap of 0.5 cm between the strips to expand the metal.

  • If the wall has significant irregularities, then it is most convenient to stick the sheets on glue, which is applied not over the entire area, but only by sculpting along the perimeter of the material and in the center.
  • For a smoother laying, it is recommended to apply the adhesive in an even thin layer using a notched trowel. Also on sale is sold special glue in cylinders, which is supplied under pressure. It is easy to work with, and the fixation quality is high..
  • Regardless of the chosen mounting method, work begins from the bottom corner. The second row is arranged with an offset, in the form of brickwork. So they cover the whole wall.

Important: when the wall is completely pasted over with polystyrene, finishing can be carried out no earlier than after 3 days.

  • It is important to carefully insulate around the windows. In this case, first, the window slopes are insulated from the inside, cutting off the penoplex along the wall level, and then the sheet is glued from the outside to form even corners.
  • For reliable fastening of the penoplex to a brick wall, one glue is not enough, each sheet is fastened with a dowel-nail with a mushroom head. Minimum 7 fasteners per sheet, including joints.
  • It is necessary to fasten the dowel-fungus in the penoplex carefully, it should only deepen by 1-2 mm.

  • If, when adjusting the foam sheets, gaps of up to 2 cm are formed, they are filled with polyurethane foam. For more serious gaps, a piece of insulation is cut out and fixed to the foam.
  • When the main work on insulation is completed, the protruding parts of the thermal insulation are cut off. This usually happens at the joints of the sheets..
  • Before the putty, the corners of the walls and slopes are first reinforced with a special perforated corner with a mesh. It is attached to the glue with which the insulation was fixed..

Tip: do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house with foam is carried out using the same technology. But if a month or more has passed from insulation to finishing, the foam is damaged by ultraviolet rays. To remove the damaged layer, the entire surface is passed with a special float.

Finishing work on penoplex

As a rule, a rigid slab insulation for a brick house is chosen if it is supposed to be finished with decorative plaster or painting..

  • When choosing plaster, it is worth noting that it will serve as an additional heat-insulating layer..
  • Be sure to stock up on a reinforcing polymer mesh with 4×4 cm cells.
  • It is fixed to penoplex with the same glue as the insulation itself. An even overlap of 10-15 cm is made along the entire length.
  • Fix the strips vertically from top to bottom, smoothing with a spatula and sinking in an adhesive composition.
  • A leveling layer of plaster is made on top (it is better to make them 2 or thinner).
  • After drying, the walls are primed and a finishing or decorative composition is applied..

Do-it-yourself brick house insulation with mineral wool

This material is ideal if you want to insulate a brick house for siding with your own hands..

Mineral wool is safe for health, has high heat and sound insulation properties. Easy to install, durable and non-flammable.

Stages of work

  • If the wall of an old house is insulated, then first prepare the base. Clean up old paint and plaster, fill in gaps.

Advice: the higher the density of the mineral wool slabs, the more convenient it is to work with it when insulating the facade of a brick house.

  • First, make a frame. Special aluminum profiles or wooden slats are used for it..
  • It is more convenient to place the slats horizontally so that the insulation sheet rests on them. The height will be equal to the height of the insulation. It must adhere tightly to the surface – not bulge out and not have empty gaps between it and the frames.
  • Then each sheet is fixed with a dowel with a cap with a fungus in at least 5 places.
  • It is advisable to carry out work on the insulation of each facade in 1 day, so as not to leave it under the influence of the sun and wind. It is especially important not to let it get wet..
  • A vapor barrier is stretched over the mineral wool and attached to the frame.
  • With this option for insulating a brick house with your own hands, the finishing involves a vetized facade. Siding, block house or any other panel finishing material are suitable for this..

Do-it-yourself brick house insulation video

Warming a brick house with warm plaster

  • Externally, it is a conventional cement-based plaster. But its main difference is high thermal insulation qualities, since instead of sand, granular polystyrene foam, expanded clay or pumice are added to it.
  • This non-combustible, environmentally friendly insulation allows you to create excellent sound insulation of the room. The maximum layer thickness is 5 cm.It is often used for internal insulation of a house.

Application steps

  • The surface is dedusted and treated with antiseptic impregnations.
  • They sell warm plaster in the form of a dry mix. You will need to dilute it yourself with plain water. For this, it is better to choose a larger container – at least 40 liters. The consistency must be thick enough to firmly attach to the wall. To do this, you can take a little of the composition on a spatula and turn it over, if it holds and does not fall, it means that it is ready to work. The prepared composition must be used within 2 hours..
  • Apply in 2 layers, each of which should not exceed 2 cm.
  • After applying the first layer of warm plaster to the brick facade, it is left to dry for at least 8 hours.
  • When insulating a brick house with your own hands from the inside, the layer dries out in 4-5 hours.

Thermal insulation of a brick house with front thermal panels

  • These versatile panels already have a decorative finish in the form of brickwork or natural stone. The heat-insulating material used for them has high energy-efficient indicators, is not afraid of moisture, fungus formation and will last for many decades..
  • It is easy and convenient to install such thermal panels due to their low weight. Therefore, it is recommended to use them for self-insulation of a brick house..

  • You can work at any time of the year.

For work you will need:

  • marker;
  • level;
  • screwdriver;
  • puncher;
  • sealant;
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • Bulgarian;
  • Master OK.

Stages of work

  • If the facade has even walls, then the panels are attached directly to it. If there are significant irregularities, then it is required to make a crate of wooden battens or a metal profile. They are fastened vertically with a step of 40 cm, so that there are at least 3 guides for each thermal panel.
  • A metal starting profile is screwed from below, which is set exactly at the level around the perimeter of the whole house.
  • Panel fastening starts from the lower left corner. They are firmly joined together thanks to the groove-tenon system. This eliminates cold bridges and moisture ingress into the joints..
  • For finishing corners, special corner thermal panels are sold.
  • If the thermal panels are attached to the frame, then self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, if directly to the wall, then a perforator.
  • Since thermal panels are still separate elements and are already a finish, it will be necessary to grout the joints. This is done exclusively at positive temperatures and with a special frost-resistant composition intended for outdoor use..

You can also insulate a brick house with aerated concrete with your own hands. How to do this is shown in the video below.